Showing posts with label Sliding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sliding. Show all posts

6/25/10

Amana Tool A.G.E. Series MD8-606TB Thin Kerf Sliding Compound Miter & Radial Arm 8-1/2-Inch x 60 Tooth ATB 5/8 Bore Saw Blade

Cheap Amana Tool A.G.E. Series MD8-606TB Thin Kerf Sliding Compound Miter & Radial Arm 8-1/2-Inch x 60 Tooth ATB 5/8 Bore Saw Blade Review





6/15/10

Factory-Reconditioned DEWALT DW717 10-Inch Double-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Cheap Factory-Reconditioned DEWALT DW717 10-Inch Double-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw Review





6/12/10

Kempston 99364 12-Inch by 72 Tooth Industrial Thick Kerf Sliding Compound Miter Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and Teflon Coating

Cheap Kempston 99364 12-Inch by 72 Tooth Industrial Thick Kerf Sliding Compound Miter Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and Teflon Coating Review





6/8/10

Makita LS1013L 15 Amp 10-Inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser

Cheap Makita LS1013L 15 Amp 10-Inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser Review




I had this saw for several months. It is a powerful but quiet SILKY SMOOTH saw right.

It is surprisingly high due to the drag functionality. I had to move my work bench to welcome him.

Make sure you have ENOUGH behind the saw.

I regretted my choice and wish I had gone with a bevel compound as the Dewalt 716 until I had to cut 2x12 last weekend. The Makita went through them as if they were so 1 / 4 "plywood conscoated with peanut butter.

WOW GREAT lumberjack!

Obviously a decent blade for the saw.

I really like the separate switch for the laser, I can use to align my cup without running the saw.

NO Why five stars?

Dust is not great. I put an adapter instead of the dust bag and attached my Shop Vac. It helped, but the system of an empty bench near the top of the blade protection is still needed or perhaps a scoop at the rear ofsaw attached to a real dust collection system.

My saw arrived with a broken lever bevel. It is only a part of $ 4, so I decided to order me rather than a problem with Amazon or anyone else. I also wanted optional accessories.

There is virtually no barrier on the right side of the blade. However, there is a factory option available is complementary closing a horizontal flange.

I went to a shelter nearby who seems to specialize in Makita where they have abig screen and they had representatives on the plant site several times in the past. When the salesman looked at the closing price of the attachment clip and they almost had to call 911 to restart my heart. Together, they cost more than 1/4th of the price of the new saw.

Even if I have a scandal for the bevel lever and attachment to the right fence.

The wait for the bevel lever was approx. one week. Good service, good price for a 3 "piece of plastic.
A few months later 2 + attachment closing never happened. I hope this is not so, I made a homemade setting that works, but is not, of course, so pretty. But the fact is quite as nice and about $ 5 per square inch of the fence is a Makita littttle expensive if it happens EVER.

This is a great saw, but it scares me to think what will or will not occur if the saw crashes and I have to wait an essential and very important! The letters S - O - L aheadmind.



4/22/10

Factory-Reconditioned Milwaukee 6955-80 12-Inch Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Cheap Factory-Reconditioned Milwaukee 6955-80 12-Inch Dual-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw Review





4/21/10

Freud LU91M012 12-Inch 72 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Sliding Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor

Cheap Freud LU91M012 12-Inch 72 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Sliding Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Review




I use this blade on a Dewalt 709 Compound Sliding Miter Saw. I purchased it based on reviews on other woodworking sites and while there were others rated higher, it was hard to justify the dramatic increased price of the Forest or even other Freud blade. I have had a Freud 10" combination blade in my tablesaw and have used a Freud 8" stack dado set for about 10 years and have had absolutely nothing but good experiences with both. This 12" cutoff blade is such a treat, especially after wearing out the original DeWalt blade on a deck, a complete refinish of a basement and installing hardwood flooring on one floor of a house. I thought about just getting the blade sharpened but there was almost nothing left to sharpen. The Freud blade is so quiet and cuts so smoothly that there have been times I've had to check to see if I really did shave a little off the board or missed completely. Heartily recommend this blade for CSMS users.


4/5/10

Makita LS1214F 15 Amp 12-Inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Fluorescent Light

Cheap Makita LS1214F 15 Amp 12-Inch Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Fluorescent Light Review




I would certainly rate this saw to the site. The soft-start function is very useful and fluorescent light is a must have. There are so may times when I am in a basement with little light and having to make cuts to cut something. The blade it comes with a blade amazingly gorgeous. The way this saw folds to proceed is by far the best of all the sliders, we used (ie: Bosch, Dewalt, Rigid, Hitachi). The only complaint I have is the index of the wedgetable, which is easy to get used to it, and it seems to hang a bit when the blade is fully extended to make a long cut and the fact that you do not get a wedge of 60 degrees, the sliders belt. It cappacity additional bevel is nice to have done the stairs. I saw with laser and feel they are overvalued anyone who uses one day has always created using the blade, it appears to me to be more precise. Also used with the laser and Makita and like this better.


3/20/10

Rockwell RK7138 15 Amp 10-Inch Sliding Miter Saw

Cheap Rockwell RK7138 15 Amp 10-Inch Sliding Miter Saw Review





3/5/10

DEWALT DW712 8-1/2-Inch Single-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Cheap DEWALT DW712 8-1/2-Inch Single-Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw Review




For the last: Could you indicate the mark of the 80 tooth blade you use? I have never seen such a blade. It looks like too many teeth for mounting on a blade of 8.5 inches, but who knows.

I have the Freud Industrial 48 tooth with the hook necessary negative and 60 tooth blades Dewalt. Freud is a kerf blade full and this saw can handle without problem. I am currently potential problems with the Dewalt blade. If I bring the blade to the front of the wood andthen push it though (like you're supposed to on this type of saw), then leave the head of the saw until the blade stops (again, like you're supposed to) the blade leaves a Dewalt bad mark on the cutting blade. The mark of the blade is made when the ribs of the blade down and down is electric braked at the end of the cut. The only way to remedy this brand of blade is either 1) stops the engine just before the end of the race (just as you should with a Skil saw) or 2) to immediatelylook up at the end of the cut while the blade is still spinning. None of these options is desirable and 2) is not safe.

I'm going back to Freud blade manufacturer and see if I have this problem. I feel it is the blade, because I do not remember that before. BTW, my saw is slightly offset on the tab of the box and saw these must be implemented exactly perfect because incedibly small errors in Tabs / perpendicularity fence will be displayed as largeerrors when the saw slipped to a 12 "cut. The only way I could bring the machine to my standards was by trial and error using a large square (known to be good) on the kerf a 12 inch cut. I had the setting up of a fraction of an inch at a time until I saw the line exactly perpendicular to the fence. A very difficult and lengthy process. In unless it can be done and he should take it for a long time.

I could not get any degree ofsuccess with a small square against the blade. The blade is simply not large enough to get an accurate reading (he always seems to be square to the fence at O degrees, even when the kerf says otherwise) and the teeth interfere with the square if you do not put up with the 30 tooth blade that comes with the saw.

This saw is an incredible machine composed once but like all saws should call in. I love the setting. It has a very high quality contemporary Italianconstruction (I have no idea why Dewalt makes this one lives in Italy, but get it while you can), all the necessary capabilities for 99 percent of jobs out there (who needs to cut a 4X4 miter saw - you learn to put flat things - you do not need a huge monster of 12 inches with a cursor as the cursor is providing high capacity), it is light, and it is powerful. A one-of-a-kind Dewalt. I would not use anything else. If you need to chop huge crown and want to nest it Ijust get a non-slider 12 inches.

Oh, the bag takes up more than 50 percent of the sawdust is my guess. Way better than nothing. Blade change is a snap - really, really easy with the tool provided.

I use it with the base plate MSUV. The stand is difficult to make sure (almost impossible given that some parts are not really) and the platform the more stable a bit fragile (the world but not enough) but otherwise it is quite good. It will not winawards for quality construction, but he is quick to install, you can move the saw around easily and has good capacity even if the extensions are the weakest link. They are fast and they work on are the most that can be said for them. I wonder how long it will take to use, but so far so good. I see nothing better on the market.

If someone has had similar experiences / problems with the alignment of the saw or the problem that the blade Dewalt please drop acomment.


Update: The mark of the blade was caused by driver error: ie, without understanding that the motor must be living back home with much sweetness and not typed at all. These phones have not saw the stability of the mass in their favor and vulnerable populations do not help. The problem for me is that when the keeper engages the wood it creates a certain resistance to be overcome to push the motor to the house. Once resistance has been defeated you need to backtrackwith your strength or you'll slam the head motor in the stop. For me, I was probably exaggerated just enough to deflect the motor a fraction of an inch, enough to create a brand of blade. The solution is to be very careful (mild is the best way to put it) when bringing the motor to the original position. I found it really need to be mitigated through the very last part of the cup. Interestingly, if you use the saw as a lefty, there were no problems. The saw has required adjustments on the two conicaland settings tab. I found the best way to do it with triangles of plastic drafting. Nothing is square box. I do not care who saw it is.

I measured the runout of the Industrial Freud and the combination Arbor, and it was less than 002 - a remarkable number, essentially perfect. The Freud Diablo 60 tooth and 60 tooth Dewalt each had unacceptable runout. I believe that the thick plate is the only way to go.