Cheap Forrest CP14609145 Solid Surface Material 14-Inch 60 Tooth 1-Inch Arbor 9/64-Inch Kerf Radial & Miter Saw Blade Review
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I bought Forrest & Forrest stif05 WW10407100 Woodworker II 10-Inch 40 Tooth ATB .100 Kerf Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor Amazon.
I try to damper blade w o / and then a reinforcement of w / IT. I see an improvement on the hardwood when ripping.
The only thing I dislike. I receive the product in a rusty state.
I can not recognize the print Forrest on the shock. I can send an email to Forrest wonder why. Maybe Forrest can not know what happens after the packagedamper and put in storage. On Joiner Blade II, The carbide tip and the blade joint has a similar condition, but it came with vinyl protector on the perimeter.
I have been building kitchen cabinets and furniture and a good amount of construction / renovation of more than 30 years. I tried several blades manufacturers and so far has been a loyal user of Freud. Well, all you need to do is to try one of these blades and you realize what you missed. The quality of the blade is first class, but more importantly, the quality of the cut is by far the best of any I've used.
I always used a zero clearance insert on my tablesaw anda basis of zero clearance on my 7-1/4 "circular saw for cutting free a tear. This blade produces a lot less tears even without a release device that zero incredible. I still use zero clearance devices when cutting plywood or laminates because I am a perfectionist, but you get the point. I now have these blades on my 10 "tablesaw, 7-1/4" circ and 12 "mitersaw. I also have a reinforcement of their blade on tablesaw ... you should get that too.
Forrest is now the only brand that Ibuy.
Forrest is the best - You get what you pay for!
This is a high quality blade I expected and performance is that and more. I've never been able to cut plexi without melting and chipping the cutting blade without melting and super good edge.FORREST does it again.
The Lowdown: Considered the best combination blade on the market. Worth the price.
Things to consider:
- This blade has an alternate top bevel (ATB) Patron of the tooth. This means that the teeth rise above the sides, then in the middle - which means it is not good for cutting slots or spline Kerfs you'll want to mount another piece of wood (as in Boxmaking). (Most RIP blades have flat teeth to purchase an extractor down from borg if you want to make thesesort of kerf cut.)
- The blade is thick. If you have a larger cabinet saw, you're in the clear to use. (With my 3HP Grizzly 1023 is like butter.) With a saw smaller (contractors or table), you may not have enough power to push this thing through thick woods, it is important ask around and plan ahead.
- Plan the size of bleeding when buying wood. I know I have more than once found that I had forgotten to account for such a large drain in my materialplanning. If you rip a board into four sections with that knife, you will lose 3/8ths to bleeding! So if you're conservation-minded when it comes to cheap wood, you could opt for a thin kerf.
- Follow the instructions Forrest to use this blade. In the thick hardwoods, it is possible to "blue" blade if you build too much friction (which could occur with any blade for a lot of reasons if you're not careful.) He ' is not likely, but possible, and it willyou really angry at the destruction of such an expensive blade.
- Keep it clean. She, like most blades cuts much better when it is clean. I recommend polishing the sides of it too.
NAME OF THE MACHINE:
- The Forrest Woodworker II is the "gold standard" Blade combination (combo = both heartbreaking and transverse) on the market Tablesaw.
- Most professionals do the work of fine wood recommend this blade for both the quality it provides andthe convenience of not having to change blades. The time it saves money in your pocket in a production environment.
- The company stands behind their products. I had a plate deformed they replaced quickly ... After establishment of the guarantee has expired. I've heard good things about their sharpening service as well. The best part? You can really talk to a man in America, on the phone.
I do my own kitchen cabinets with red oak and birch plywood ¾ inch prefinished. After many frustrating attempts to rip and cross cut with other pre-finished plywood mill blades without any waiver and a split, I decided to try a Forrest Duraline HI-AT 10 "80 tooth blade. I have a 10-inch Jet 3HP cabinet saw and rechecked all the dimension tables blade, splitter and parameters of the new fence to blade, no adjustments are necessary.
Wow, what a lame. Sharp, smooth, quiet ndrag, no vibration (no my game does not work at all) and no lifting or broken layer cons of prefinished birch plywood. What difference did this blade in the results and enjoyed woodworking. The 90 and under 90 degree cross cuts & RIP are smooth with no signs of burning or vibration.
Forrest also burns a serial number into the plate with a guarantee of satisfaction with life. Complete instructions on care and sharpening. I never knew such details of anyblade manufacture. I'll stick to Amana and Freud bits and router cutters but I'll buy Forrest blades from now on.
Jim,
Rochester, NY
For anyone who wonders if the Forrest blades are worth the difference in initial cost, I can definitely say yes. I bought 3 so far and will buy more.
I recently sent 2 back to Forrest for sharpening and was back in 10 days. Do not use any other sharpening service.
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